surfer

Surfin’ through Life…

I’m always meeting cool and interesting people, like this surfer dude I met yesterday morning down at Venice Beach (name withheld, just in case he’d rather not be named).  He’s been surfing here, pretty much everyday, since 1982, and he had some great stories about sharks and dolphins, as you might imagine.  You could tell from talking to him, and from the gleam in his eyes, that he he was really passionate about the surfing lifestyle and that he would not likely trade that for anything.  Talking to him kind of reminded me of Patrick Swayze’s surfer/philosopher character, Bohdi, in the very cool “surfer movie” from way back in 1991, Point Break.  If you have not seen it, it’s worth seeing.

Surf’s up dude!!

So we’ve made our way down to the San Francisco Bay Area to do a little exploring.  Spending a few days hosted by a wonderful family at their beautiful house on Stinson Beach.  It’s just so peaceful and relaxing here, the smell of the sea and the crashing of the waves along the shore.  I went out early this morning to snag this shot of a surfer doing his thing.  I was experimenting a bit with long exposure to get a more painterly effect in the shot.  Also blend in some a nice blue texture to give it an almost canvas painting like look.  What do you all think?

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